thealmightyguru.freeforums.org

Ok, so I play in a college LARP that is funded by a group that bases its safety standards off of NERO to a degree in regards to construction, materials, etc. As it stands, to prevent whip weapons may have no more than 2 1/2 inches of closed cel foam off the end of the core on either end. One game trying to get school funding has daggers that have considerably less pipe, and other weapons have easily 3 inches or more off the core.

The conundrum I am facing here is this: Through experimentation, I found that dagger boffers built like this, as opposed to anything greater than dagger length, don't really whip, and actually hurt less than boffers with more pipe in them, probably the full intention since it is a more intense boffer LARP.

I do not want to propose a full exemption to dagger length boffers, but given the experimentation I have seen, I think something needs to be done, but what? Special designations for rougher boffer combat LARPS that allow for certain weapons to be built differently? what? I'm really stumped.

rules are rules. change them if you can, follow them if you can't...

Gisiebob wrote:rules are rules. change them if you can, follow them if you can't...

I happen to be *active* (untill full elections are held, which I intend to run for) person in charge of making sure the games conform to safety standards. I brought this issue up with the club's active president, and to some degree, there is agrement.

The conundrum is what should the exact wording be, because if we are too careless, the incredibly whippy weapons of years past would be able to make a comeback, ones we know for sure would be unsafe, but at the same time, some leniency allows for human error in calculating, for example, how much extra foam off the core one needs.

Make exceptions to weapons of a certain length.

I tend to stick to a rule of having AT LEAST two inches on a thrusting tip. To me, whip comes from PVC thickness at certain lengths. Obviously a five foot long weapon with a half-inch PVC core is going to whip a lot. As for padding being too long, the problem I've seen with that is the tip ripping off during combat...which is a much bigger risk factor. To help counter this I generally wrap a few extra strips around the padding where the PVC ends.

Certain weapon types would require that you have more thrusting tip (i.e. polearms and sickles). Use your judgement, and honestly not every group of boffers is going to agree fully on what rules work best, so experiment a bit and find what works for you. Just remember that bare PVC hurts...I speak from experience.

One more question, for very short weapons, as in only like daggers and short swords perhaps, has anybody ever been able to safely use say 1/4 in. PVC pipe before?

not personally, but yes. short swords, a little longer than a foot to just below two feet I'd suggest as the length restrictions. (daggers get a lot of heavy force on them, and a good amount of weight in them can be useful.)

in the hilt another section of 1/4" is useually splinted on to give a better grip.

Instead of trying to figure out what foam length beyond the core and pipe diameter work for a specific length, you could have a rule that "weapons cannot flex during use beyond a 45 degree angle." Or whatever angle you like.

You can extend the foam beyond the tip more than 2-3 inches if you reinforce it with fiberglass reinforced strapping tape. I would suggest not using it on the outer surface of the boffer, as it is a bit stiffer than duct tape. Using contact cement between layers of foam will stiffen the foam so that it doesn't whip as much.

However, I believe NERO uses lightest touch. If you are also using lightest touch, than safety is only a concern if someone gets over exited, as you are pretty much just pretending to be boffering.

ganso

fiberglass tape? are you sure that is safe to use?

Fiberglass reinforced strapping tape. It is clear tape, heavier than scotch tape, that has fiberglass strands running lengthwise through it. It is used for wrapping packages for shipping. You can't tear it with your hands. You have to cut it.

In boffing it is, and is often required to be, run lengthwise along the core. This stiffens the core slightly, and insures that if the core breaks, the pieces stay inside the boffer (well mostly).

It is also used to reinforce closed cell foam so that it does not tear easily. It is safe. It is a little stiffer than duct tape, but not much. Its handy for strengthening and reinforcing guards and tips.

ganso

but if the backing ruptures you got fiberglass shards on your hands...perhaps even literally... don't you?

Gisiebob wrote:but if the backing ruptures you got fiberglass shards on your hands...perhaps even literally... don't you?

Fiberglass does not produce shards. The shards come from the plastic, usually polyurethane, that the fiberglass is embedded in. fiberglass reinforced tape has no rigid plastic, so no shards.

Fiberglass thread looks like nylon thread, except that it is very strong. Fiberglass cloth, before it is embedded with polyurethane to form a fiberglass rod or the hull of a boat, looks and feels like coarse white nylon, like the uppers of a pair of lightweight hiking boots.

Fiberglass reinforced strapping tape has very strong threads of fabric stuck to heavy cellophane tape with very strong glue. Think clear duct tape with an attitude.

If a boffer core wrapped on fiberglass reinforced tape breaks, the shards of the core would have to cut through the fiberglass threads, which is unlikely, but possible, before it they could cut through the heavy cellophane backing. You would then only have the shards of core that you would have it the tape was not used, except that they would be still stuck to the tape, which has very strong glue, rather than flying around. The shards stuck to the tape would then have to tear through the closed cell foam, and the cover of the boffer.

The force required to brake a core and tear through the tape would require something like someone charging and trying to impale a tree at full speed. If your going to be doing stuff like that, you should be restricted to boffers made of pool noodles. No core, no tape, just pool noodles.

Ganso

travelsonic wrote:One more question, for very short weapons, as in only like daggers and short swords perhaps, has anybody ever been able to safely use say 1/4 in. PVC pipe before?

I have made numerous 1/4" core daggers, I wouldn't use it on any core over 16" though. The flex would be too much, and would either fold in half or break.

How does 3" of padding at the end of the boffer cause it to whip excessively? The only thing I can think of that would cause that to happen is if the core had too small of a diameter.

How does 3" of padding at the end of the boffer cause it to whip excessively? The only thing I can think of that would cause that to happen is if the core had too small of a diameter

3" of padding doesn't seem to be a problem - hell, 4-5" I've made work quite nicely, but more than that and the end will whip a bit.

I am not sure if the core diameter is a problem alone, but also the type of core being used.